It was dark time and I had snuggled under my sleeping bag. There was an outlet next to my cot, attached to a wooden post. I plugged in my phone and chained my phone to the fence, sticking the key in my bra. And fell asleep.
I woke up with the same lifeguard I saw yesterday shaking me awake. "Ma'am. Ma'am why are you asleep out here?" He said curiosity I his eyes.
I grunted and rolled over "Um. Will I get yelled at if I say I ran away? Well not really since I'm 18. But I didn't tell my dad because he would freak out. But I got a few bucks to spare until I find a job. And...you probably are bored out of your mind." I laugh and sit up.
"Well I have to say that your hair is a new style." He laughs and hands me a mirror. My jaw drops and I get my brush out of my bag and brush my hair.
"So are you going to tell me that story? I'll buy you breakfast, come on." He holds his hand out and I take it. We walk over to Mcdonalds and I get a chicken biscuit and he gets the same. We both get a coffee and sit down in a boot in the corner. "Ok begin." He seemed eager to know my life story.
I sigh. "Ok well my dad always wanted me to be a doctor and go to NYU, but of course, I didn't. I told him about my dream at being a professional surfer and he said that it's not a career and he always lectures me about hanging out with the wrong people. Finally I had enough of it and yesterday was my graduation ad I left a little after it. My friends were going to come along but they were gonna go to college. I left a note for my dad though. He's probably more angry at me right now than worried. And I stole $500 from him and I use that here to sort of survive. But I also just run around places. And I honestly don't mind sleeping on the beach, I spend all day there anyways. Not like it really makes a difference. I'm probably boring you right now." I laugh.
"What? No! Not at all. Your life's interesting. More interesting than mine at least. So what did your friends go to college for?"
"Well Danny went to be a writer, Jonathan wants to be a police officer, an Erin wants to be a lawyer." When I'm finished, he looks at me curiously.
"Your friends are guys? Haha that must be why it's so easy to talk to you." He laughs a little and I give him a confusing look?
"How come your surprised?" He looks a little offended.
"What? Oh no I'm not surprised just...well yeah a little surprised but it like it." I smile and sigh again
"Um how are the waves today?" I ask. Hopefully they are good, I really want to surfy today.
"Great actually. I get on shift at 8pm. Want to go together?" He asks and I smile and nod before throwing my trash away and go to my cot.
I open the zipper and grab a white bikini out and head over to the porter potty. When I get dressed I get out and guys whistle at me. I ignore them, the guys taught me how to. When I got back, the guy was waiting over where my stuff was. I smile and set my dirty clothes in a deprecate bag and stuff it under my cot. I unlock my board and hide it again before we head off.
When we got in the water, we paddled out deep and sat there straddling our boards, waiting for a foot wave.
"So, you love surfing?" He asked smiling at how focused I was, searching for a big wave about to come up.
"Yeah. My mom taught me secretly when I was 7. But my dad found out and divorced her. I kept at it since it was the only thing I had and then I fell in love with it the same as her. I was thinking that one day I'll go see where she lives and visit her, but I left my car at my dad's place." Great. Good going lili. "I'm Lilian by the way. Everyone calls me Lili in case you were wondering." I smile and stick my hand out for him to shake. "I'm Wesley. Here comes a wave!" He shouts and I turn to see a huge wave coming towards us.
"Come on Lilian, let's see what you've got!" He yells and I paddle fast. I felt myself lifter really high and I stand up. I turn my feet, keeping my knees bent to maintain balance. The wave crashes over my head and I stick my hand out to brush the wall of water towering over me. I loved this moment so much. I just wish our world was this beautiful to everyone. I mean sure the ocean is filled with the most ugliest and deadliest creatures, but I just find them beautiful. The thinks their capable of. I just look up to these creatures forever. I leave the wave tunnel before it crashes behind me ad when the water is smooth again I cannon ball into the the water.