4. surfs up
Since it was only three o'clock I was the first one home. Connor would we working at the town pool, mom would be cutting client's hair at the salon and Dad would still be at work in the office. I tossed my backpack onto my bed, changed into my favorite blue Billa Bong bikini and made my way back downstairs. I crossed the kitchen and stood in front of the three dog cages that took up half the space in our kitchen.
"Hi puppies!' I said in a baby voice as three wagging tails pointed at me. I let each of them out one by one. Chloe was my puppy and she was a present for my 16th birthday. Cooper was Connor's 100 pound american bull dog and Swagger (Connor named him) was our oldest scrappy guy whom we have had for three years. I gave each of them a treat and then headed towards the garage. I grabbed my bright pink surfboard and scrambled out the door. I was the typical golden child that never broke my parents rules except for one. The " no going to the beach alone to surf" rule. I mean I am certified lifeguard and a great swimmer but my mom is terrified of the water so I understand her fear, just not enough to keep me from the beach.
Thankfully we lived a block from the beach and I didn't have to walk too far with the heavy board. My parents were convinced I was a mermaid in another life because they could never get me out of the water. I quickly crossed the street and jogged down the pier. I finally reached the sand and stood still for a second. I closed my eyes and took a deep breath, the sun on my face and the soft breeze of the salty sea air. For me, there was no better feeling then the sand in your toes and the calming sound of the waves crashing on the shore. I ran down to the waters edge, beaming and happy as ever. The waves were absolutely perfect, with huge swells. I quickly paddled out before I could let my fears get the best of me. The water was unbelievably warm, like bath water to say the least and crystal clear. I figured I'd catch a few waves and get back to my house within an hour. I had caught a few nice waves so I decided to take a rest in-between the sets while the water was calm. I was checking my watch to see how much time was left when a 8ft swell crashed on me and my board. A little shaken up I surfaced and scrambled back on my board. Soon another wave came but I was able to dive underneath. Each time I tried to swim back towards shore I was pulled out deeper to sea. It was then that I realized I was stuck in a rip tide. I quickly told myself not to panic. I had gotten out of rip tides before, of course my dad or Connor was there to coach me through the whole thing. I kept telling myself to stay calm and tried to think of everything my father had told me about getting out of the current. The current seemed to be pulling me to the left which was bad because it was very rocky. I finally came to the conclusion that I would have to take a wave in too shore. The only problem being I was out too far past the breaking zone to catch anything. And the other problem was there were no lifeguards on duty on this beach and I couldn't see anyone on the shore. Ughhhh I began to panic.There was finally a wave that seemed to be breaking farther out, my only chance before I drifted out to sea. I paddled as hard as I could and I finally caught the tail end of the wave. Just as I was about to stand I saw dark shadows just in front of me. I was way to close to the rocky area I was talking about before if I fell off now I could hit a reef and if I stayed on I could fall of and hit a reef. In a split second I decided to stay down and hold on to the board as long as I can, hoping to make it past the rocks. I prayed to myself that everything would be okay. I made it past the first few rocks and I was beginning to have hope again when the bottom of my board grazed a rock and I tumbled off. I resurfaced all to quickly taking in water and coughing to try and get it out. I wiped the salty water from my eyes just in time to have a wave knock me out and fill my eyes with the stinging water again. I thrashed out of the water, gasping for air when I saw my board, being lifted by a 7ft wave. I froze, just in time to watch my board hydroplane right at me. I dove under and with my luck of the day, banged my head on a large rock. My eyes blinked furiously as I fought to stay awake. But all too soon I lost the battle, and the overwhelming headache and smell of blood was the last thing I could remember.