1. It sucks!
It's a feeling that far surpasses any and all of my experiences and each time is better than the last. In a moment you can you feel fully alive, and the next die.
It is the risk you run if you want to feel the adrenaline running through your veins, the drops will crash into your face, the sense of power dominate the ocean.
And as I imagine will be my first day at my new school: "Hi, my name is _______ Ferguson was born and raised in Swanage until age 16, and my mother decided to move to London be a good choice to keep the economy afloat in our family. And yes, if it has not been clear, I hate being here " You have heard of the phrase "You do not know what you have until you lose it" Right? Well, I do know that what I want is what I have, I knew before losing, what is now and will continue knowing.
Only three things are essential in my life: my cats, my computer and surfing. Along with writing and reading what I like to do is surf. I surf, I need to surf. And logically, mathematically, completely (and all adverbs that I finished it happen-mind) Surfing impossible if there are no waves, and waves that have a beach you need, so ... I DO NOT IN LONDON!
Sorry to be telling my problems, but someone would have to vent and if you are watching this you have to be very boring.Who knows? Maybe get to take me to California or, better yet, Hawaii, do you imagine it? Nah ... Neither do I.