California Paradise

Lilly Fall has just moved from Maryland to Huntington Beach, California. She misses her friends, surfing at Assateague, and the general east coast vibe. But then she meets Keaton, Wes and Drew.

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3. Unlucky Beach Day

I woke up to somebody tapping my window. Great. That's what I get for choosing the one big bedroom on the ground floor with the sliding glass door that opens onto the porch right next to the hammock faceing the ocean. 

I groggily sat up, and turned to face the door. I shrieked and tacoed myself in the duvet when I saw it was Keaton, Wes, and Drew. I was only wearing a singlet and boy shorts. Whoops.

I reached my hand from under the covers and twirled my finger, trying to telepathically get the message to them that they needed to turn around. 

But of course the doofuses didn't get the message in time. I hopped out of my blanket burrito, only to see three very wide- eyed guys outside of the door. My parents really need to purchase me some curtains. I screeched and covered myself. Singlets aren't the most covering kind of pajamas. Obviously. And boy shorts are, well, super short spandex underwear. Oh dear.

I quickly grabbed a black bikini and my pink and black striped Hurley boardshorts. I got my purple O'neill shortie wetsuit from my suitcase, but I wished I had my longer one.

As soon as I slid open the door, Wes wolf whistled and took my hat. Why do they always take my hat? 

I slapped him on the arm as I blushed.  He and Drew guffawed, while Keaton was in between looking embarrased and trying not to laugh.  "Don't you dare!" I admonished him.

"I'm sorry I can't help it!" he crowed, than burst into laughter.  I huffed out a long breath and took my Bic Wahind 7'3 surfboard from the corner of the deck.  I carried it on top of my head and trudged over the dune to the beach.  

Way down the sand I could see Huntington Beach Pier.  It was so pretty in the endings of the sunrise.  

When he saw I only had a short wetsuit, Drew raised his eyebrow.  I stared right back at him.  "I've been snowboarding without a proper jacket before.  I think I'll be ok." He raised his hands in surrender and we waded into the shallows.  When it was deep enough, we hopped onto our boards on our stomachs, and paddled out to the sandbar where the waves were beginning to break.

Wes caught the first wave of the day, followed by Drew, and than Keaton.  "C'mon, Lilly!  Catch your first Cali wave!" Drew smiled.  I responded by paddling as hard as I could for the start of the next set.  Popping up, I felt serene.  

I felt even better when I turned into the wave, following the spots where it crested.  I did a few cutbacks before pivoting and dropping out of the wave about twenty feet from shore.  By the time I made it through the breaking waves again, Wes and drew were racing for the next set.  Keaton and I were pretty tired, so we caught a small one into shore for a rest.  

But, right as we were about to finish wrapping the leashes around the fins of our boards, Wes screamed.  And not a fake, Oh, I'm messing around scream. A truly terrifying, primeval, I'm badly hurt! scream.  Crap.

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