Soul surfing

Leah feels so alone in the world and spends every spare moment in the sea, doing what she loves the most: Surfing. Is it possible that Leah can find something she loves even more?


1. Me and the sea

It was a perfect ride to the shore, and I was left completely stoked after the session. There's no sport quite like surfing. The feeling you get for the first time and every time after when you catch a wave leaves you feeling like that's all you ever want to do in your life. But maybe that's just me. There's not much else to my life other than surfing. I'm a bit of a loner, and maybe that's why I love surfing so much. It's just you, your board and the deep blue sea. Not much of a team sport but then I've never been one for team sports.
I caught my thruster under one arm and walked slowly up the beach to the promenade. I quickly took off my wetsuit, rinsed the sand off me and threw on my favorite hoodie, the green Roxy one.
That had to be the only downside of surfing how cold it is once you're out of the water. But maybe that's just in Ireland. I've always dreamt of surfing in places like Pipeline in Hawaii but unless I become pro or something I'll never have the money to make it there. But I can't really complain, I do have a job unlike a lot of people I know, even if it's just mainly in the Summer holidays.
It was John who gave me the job, John McCarthy, in his surf school, instructing budding young surfers. He's such a laid back guy and it's cool being able to say you know an Irish surf champion, that is if I had any one who doesn't know him to say it to. I don't have many friend other than the other surf obsessed instructors I work with. My closest friends name is Dan. He loves surfing too.
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